For decades, vintage collectors have favored honest patina over watch cases that were cleaned to look pristine. The trend towards seeking genuine stains and marks has spread worldwide.
Vegetable tanned leather is soft and luxurious, and it adapts to the shape of your wrist over time for a personalized fit. It also resists stretching and deformities much better than lower-grade leathers.
1. Moisture and Oxygen
The oxidation process of watch bands is usually triggered by moisture and oxygen and develop a patina that adds character. The higher the humidity, the faster patina develops. Air pollution, which is mainly sulfur oxide, can advance patina formation as well. Sulfur oxide reacts with oxygen to form brochanite, which is a green corrosion product that forms on copper surfaces. Therefore, areas that have lots of rain, snow, or mist tend to see quick patina development. Steam from kettles and pressure cookers can also speed up patina formation.
Bronze is a metal alloy that contains tin and copper, the combination of which makes it an exceptionally durable material. As such, it’s used for a variety of applications, including jewelry. Bronze is known for its unique color, durability, and ability to create a beautiful patina. The metal’s tin content helps it resist rust, making it an excellent choice for water resistance.
In addition to tin, the alloy includes a small percentage of phosphorus as well. As a result, the metal is slightly softer than stainless steel. Although phosphor bronze is harder than steel, constant wear may lead to extreme erosion. This is especially true when the wearer’s skin comes into contact with the band. This friction can cause pins to poke out of the clasp, which is not good for the longevity of the watch.
The Black Bay Bronze is the first Tudor model to come with a Bronze case, which is slightly different from the steel Black Bay. The lugs are thicker, but the overall size is similar. The case is also slightly heavier, though not dramatically so.
Some watch collectors prize watches with a deep, attractive patina. The dials of vintage Rolexes, for example, are often a warm tropical brown, and this is a look that many watch enthusiasts like. However, the aging of these watches is largely due to sun exposure and oxidation. This is why current watch makers use a range of coatings, alloys, and luminova chemistry to prevent the oxidation that gives vintage Rolexes their distinctive appearance.
While experimentation with patina is fun, it’s important to remember that a watch is a piece of mechanical equipment that should be worn for its intended purpose. Experimenting with a watch to force it to develop patina is not only risky, but can actually damage the watch. This is because it will remove material that could alter the shape of the watch and compromise its water resistance. Furthermore, this experimenting can also lead to bronze disease, which is a destructive corrosion process that eats away at the bronze.
2. Chemicals
A patina can give a watch an organic and vintage look. It also demonstrates the longevity of a watch and can tell a story about its wearer. However, the natural aging process can sometimes be detrimental to a watch. It is important to understand what causes a watch to develop patina, and how to prevent it.
The oxidation process that causes a watch to patina can be caused by a number of factors. The most common are moisture and oxygen, but other substances can also cause it to occur. These include sulfur dioxide, nitric oxide, and other metal oxides. These are typically present in the air, and a watch will patina when they come into contact with the metals in the alloy.
Various chemical substances can also accelerate the natural oxidation of copper and bronze watches. This includes compounds such as liver of sulphur, potassium-polysulphide, and iron nitrate. These are used by watchmakers to create specific colors and effects on the watch components, including the dial and hands. While these techniques can provide a desirable aesthetic, they can be damaging to the watch. They can etch certain alloys and may void the manufacturer’s warranty.
Another possible cause of patina is a chemical reaction that occurs between the bronze alloy and chloride ions. This reaction is similar to the one that creates rust on an old copper pot or tarnish on silver. It is also known as bronze disease, and it can lead to the formation of fuzzy green patches that are a clear sign of corrosion.
While the green deposits of patina are not as severe as those on a watch with bronze disease, they can be difficult to remove. A watch with a natural patina should be rinsed in fresh water after every wearing, to remove any chlorine residue. This should help prevent the occurrence of future corrosion, and it will also ensure that the watch has a clean, pristine look. Using a product designed for cleaning brass or silver can be helpful, but it may take a bit of elbow grease to get the green patina off.
3. Stains
While some watch enthusiasts prefer their timepieces to be pristine and unblemished, others appreciate the gradual development of patina over time. This phenomenon is not a flaw or mark of wear and tear, but rather an inherent beauty that comes with the materials’ natural exposure to the elements over time. Watch lovers have long sought to achieve a desirable patina on their vintage watches, and many are now using tools like abrasives and specialized cleaners to accelerate the process.
Smaller leather accessories, such as belts and straps, are perfect examples of patina formation. The constant flexing and bending of the straps cause them to darken, soften, and develop unique patterns over time. This creates a distinctive, personalized look that gives each strap its own character. In the case of watches, a dark, lustrous patina can make the band more comfortable on the wrist and also increase its aesthetic appeal.
Watch bands should be cleaned regularly to remove dirt, sweat, and oils that accumulate over time. This will prevent them from becoming dull and brittle, which can lead to cracks or rips in the material. Depending on the material, cleaning your watch strap can be as easy as wiping it down with a soft cloth. If the band is made of a durable material, such as stainless steel or aluminium bronze, you can also use glass cleaner or white vinegar. For stubborn stains, a toothbrush can be used to scrub the area thoroughly.
Stainless steel can become rusty or develop a brownish-green color called “patina” over time, especially if it’s often submerged in water or exposed to excessive sweat. To prevent this, you should rinse the watch after every use and keep it in a cool, dry place when not worn.
Stains are more difficult to avoid on rubber watch bands, but keeping the straps clean and dry can help. You should also avoid tightly winding or bending the watch band when not in use, as this can cause unsightly creases and distortions. Instead, store it in a watch box or soft pouch to protect it from dust and other contaminants when not on your wrist.
4. Heat
Like any metal product, bronze watches can suffer from long-term exposure to the elements, which can cause some physical and chemical damage. One of the most common is tarnishing, which can result in a green residue that gives the watch an unwanted aesthetic. Fortunately, tarnishing can usually be reversed by using any cleaning products intended for brass or silver. For example, Cape Cod Cloths will typically work on bronze cases, and NEVR-DULL is another option available at most paint supply stores.
Bronze watches, especially those with a darker dial, can also develop a unique patina that is both attractive and desirable. These changes can be caused by sun and oxidation, and can shift the dial color to brown, cream, or tropical brown. These unique variations can make a watch look incredibly distinctive, and often add character to the watch that isn’t available with a pristine, refinished dial.
While some watch enthusiasts prefer a clean dial, many prefer the look of a watch that has developed natural patina over time. It’s a way to show that a watch has been worn and cared for, and can be a sign that the owner hasn’t overly restored or refinished their watch, keeping it close to its original state. These features can add to the overall value of a watch, and can be an important factor for collectors when buying one.
Smaller leather accessories like belts and straps can also develop a natural patina over time. Especially when the leather is flexed or stretched repeatedly, this can create unique patterns and textures that make a watch strap stand out from others. These unique features can also make a strap more comfortable to wear, as the constant stretching causes the leather to soften and darken where it touches the wrist.
Unlike the chemical patina described above, this type of patina can be reversed by soaking the bracelet in water with borax. Specifically, fill a Chinese food soup container with warm water (not scalding), and place the bracelet in it. After about an hour, brush the borax solution on the bracelet, and heat it until it glows a dark orange color.
